From Fabric Swatches to Full-Fledged Bags: The Experimentation Behind Our Materials

Maia Hamilton
2025-03-21T11:20:52-07:00

At TOM BIHN, we’re no strangers to experimentation and innovation. Our shelves are stacked with fabric samples—some that make their way into bags you carry every day, and others that remain as one-off prototypes, teaching us what works (and what doesn’t).

Fabric samples allow us to see how a material looks and performs in a finished bag. We sew sample bags to assess whether a fabric’s weight and structure suit a specific purpose, and we also conduct Taber tests to ensure it meets our durability standards. Thanks to this hands-on process, we discover the best combinations of design, materials, and color. Some fabrics instantly click, while others surprise us in unexpected ways—but that’s the beauty of sampling. We learn what works long before a bag reaches production.

Our sampling process wouldn’t be possible without our close partnerships with textile mills. Our senior management team regularly visits our suppliers to see firsthand how our materials are woven. We constantly receive new fabric samples, many of which don’t make it into our main lineup. But when we find something special, we look for ways to incorporate it—sometimes through products like our Mystery Grab Bags, Mystery Organizer Pouches, and even one-off product samples.

Now, we’re putting three new X-Pac colors to the test—and letting you decide which one should join the lineup.

The School Bus Yellow That Started It All: Testing 420d Spectron

Before 420d Spectron became the fabric you know today, it started as an experiment. We wanted a modern successor to 400d Halcyon, something with a similar lightweight durability but a fresh look. We received our first sample of Spectron in early 2024—and it was yellow. Bright, unmistakable, school bus yellow.

Why? This high-visibility color allowed us to see every detail of the UHMWPE thread and diagonal pattern as we tested its strength, flexibility, and appearance. While we loved the boldness, we knew we wanted to launch Spectron in a more versatile shade—so we landed on a black-and-charcoal grid, reminiscent of our most popular 400d Halcyon color.

The Cordura Comeback (and Why It Didn't Stick)

1000d Cordura has been in and out of our lineup for years, making a strong return during the pandemic when Ballistic Nylon became harder to source. Its rugged texture was a hit with some, thanks to its ability to mask scuffs and wear—but others found it too rough, especially when it came to attracting pet hair.

Cordura’s biggest advantage during that time? Availability. It was a stock fabric, which made it easy to source in a wide range of colors. However, because it wasn’t custom-woven to our specifications, we had less control over color accuracy and finishing details. While it served us well in a challenging time, our shift back to Ballistic Nylon allowed us to return to the level of customization our designs demand.

What’s Next for X-Pac RX30? You decide.

X-Pac RX30 was our first foray into laminate fabrics, introduced in 2022. Since then, we’ve carefully expanded the lineup, adding colors like Sunglow and Marine. But we’re always testing new possibilities, and today, we have three fresh samples ready for their moment in the spotlight.

The contenders:

Periwinkle: A true periwinkle, evoking a spring garden full of violets.

Dusty Purple: Like Dusk’s softer, deeper, and slightly more youthful sibling.

Stark White: A crisp white reminiscent of Tahoma and snow-capped mountains—striking, but with practical challenges.

Our team has shared their insights: Periwinkle feels like a perfect match for Seattle’s blooming spring. Stark White is a standout but requires a lot of extra care to keep pristine. And Dusty Purple offers a compelling alternative for fans of Dusk who want something subtle.

Help Us Choose the Future of X-Pac

As always, we want your input! Which color would you love to see added to our X-Pac lineup? Cast your vote in the comments—Periwinkle, White, or Dusty Purple? We can’t wait to hear what you think!